"Mr Halim stringer" did this. Sorry, it's 2am in Vietnam and I have to go to sleep, wait for the answer tomorrow and thanks for your comment.
Are you asking why he move the string down after every time he tensioned the main? If so, that is a sign of good stringer because it will keep the cross string straight. If your stringer is not as attentive as he is, you will see your cross string that is slightly curved. So, after a few hits and strings rest straight, your lost lost 1lb of tension.
He just tried to make the crosses straight and even. Usually, if the crosses curve a lot and you have to do this, it's not a very good string job since cross tension is already reduced unless it's intentionally accounted for.
bad stringer: the stringer straighten the cross string after finished stringing the whole racket good stringer: the stringer straighten each cross string after each tension while the tensioner is still active. the reason to straighten the string: a curved string will lose tension after straightening, so doing that during stringing will compensate for that loss. So best is to have strings straighten always. furthermore, when straightening the string, dynamic friction occurs and it will minimize tension loss due to friction. however, it must be done when the tensioner is still active as then the tensioner (assuming constant pull) will compensate for the slack once the string is straighten. if it is done at the end after all cross strings are done, nothing will compensate for the slack and there will be tension loss. If the stringer is doing that, it is all cosmetic and nothing more. bad stringer.
I am curious how much the loss actually is. I do know that once I started straightening the cross while the WISE tensioner is still active, I can hear the WISE activates and pulls a bit more to compensate for the tension loss. But never actually try to measure it. I will try measuring it next time by switching off constant pull.
To me, it's not necessary "bad" if you do it consistently and compensate adequately. It's the same reason why you add 2 lbs to cross for equipment slack. It's inevitable if you go for speed (saving time adjusting crosses). I prefer adjustment before clamping so I never have to do it afterwards.
I wonder that if Mr Halim has done it (move very single cross string down every time he tensioned the cross string), so why he has to do it again with all the cross strings at 15:20 on the video clip
moving it during every pull is the main part for getting the correct tension, but string might still move a little so for final presentation at the end, it is ok to make a final pass to make it look perfect for the customer.
I'm using cross +2lbs and the frame is still intact right after stringing. However, after a week, the frame is crushed horizontally and stretched vertically. I predict that this is due to the fact that the main string is long and stretches a lot. I've been thinking lately that maybe it would be kinder to the frame if I didn't use +2lbs, but I'd like to hear everyone's opinion.
What keeps you from simply giving it a try? If the frames end up too long and narrow now with +2 lbs., it should be better with going mains = crosses. You won't damage the racket, so the only way to find out is Nike. Just do it.
The cross values change depending on whether you are focusing on the original shape right after stringing or a few days later when the mains are stretched. When are you focusing on the original shape? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In which state will the racket remain a longer period of time? I'd say it's after the initial settling period, so that would be my target.
So someone says I strung at 26 lbs. does it mean 26lbs main + 28lbs cross or 25lbs main +27lbs cross. Thanks!
How should I know? You should ask the stringer yourself. Your stringer may tension differently than I do. Also, what machine your stringer uses differs greatly. Some even strong with wrong starting method. So, I cannot and will not answer your question. Sorry.
Yes to all 3, Depends on the stringer. There is no standard. I used to go by mains tension, was told my jobs come out tight, so now I go by the cross tension. Sent from my SM-A315G using Tapatalk
I’d even go a step further and suggest that you should stop caring so much about the numbers. If you order 26 lbs. and you think it’s too soft, then oder 27 or 28 lbs. next time. Or vice versa. You’ll have to start the same procedure with every new stringer. As the others already wrote, every stringer will have his/her own 26 lbs. In my case, you’ll get 26/26 lbs., just to add another option.
each stringer had different habbit. So no one can tell the correct answer. exactly... Everytime i try different stringer, it always a new journey. Asking my regular tension & adjust +1 or -1 on every stringing. If string 3 times didnt give me my preferable tension, i will blacklist them. I will assume he is just dumb lazy stringer & his work really inconsistent. So my regular 27 lbs on my usual stringer might be 28 lbs on other stringer & can be 26 lbs on different stringer.
Shall we try and start a standard? Tension = max setting used. Any -2 on mains etc is just stringer variance. Sent from my SM-A315G using Tapatalk
Go with the lowest tension used. The higher tension isn't what's actually on the string, as part of it is eaten up by the friction...so the lowest used tension gives a much better indication of what you have on your racket, and even that will still be a higher number than what's really on there. Also, what you add on top of the main tension is the really subjective part, so using the lower (=main) tension should be more consistent across stringers