You can start the crosses from anywhere in theory, but you might be better off starting from the head, using a starting knot, and working down towards the throat.
how do i start from the head with flying clamps?? im trying to work it out in my head but i can't seem to do it....
A few ways 1. Tie a starting knot at top 6, weave the first cross through 7, weave the second cross through 8, pull tension on the first 2 crosses in 1 pull. Clamp, and then pull each cross one at a time after that. (instead of pulling all the string through 7 and 8, you could start at 8 and weave a short amount of string through 8 then 7 then tie the knot.) You get a slightly lower tension in cross 1 this way, but personally, I don't think it matters too much. Taneepak thinks otherwise. 2. use a starting clamp to hold the string outside of 7, weave 7 and 8, pull tension on the 2 crosses, clamp 1+2 with both clamps. pull some tension on the string coming out of 7 to make it easy to remove the starting clamp, remove the starting clamp, stop pulling tension, tie-off at 6. (I tend to use this method because you don't need a starting knot. I'm crap at starting knots) 3. use a starting clamp to hold the string outside of 7, weave 7 and 8, pull tension on the 2 crosses, clamp, continue, etc, finish the crosses at the throat, tie off at the throat. Put clamps back at the top on crosses 1+2 and 2+3. Pull tension on cross 1 (if you left enough string coming out of 7 to reach the tensioner), remove the starting clamp, remove the clamp from 1+2, check the tension being pulled, clamp 1+2 again, stop pulling, tie off. or remove the starting clamp and tie off at the head after doing cross 3, rather than waiting until the end.
i don't have a starting clamp, i was told it wasn't essential so i didn't buy one... i want every string to be tight.... if i do the cross strings like the main strings (starting from the middle) would there be any drawbacks?? will i have any problems....?
actually... if i add an extra lb or 2 it should compensate for the tension loss on the first string wouldn't it?? your way actually sounds easier thanks!!
i was just thinking again.... if i do that... and i wanted my racquet to be strung at 24lbs then that means i would have to do 24x26lbs 24x28lbs(adding another 2lbs to compensate for the tension loss of the first cross string) would my racquet warp of break even??
dunno. a while back somebody posted some stuff about some information from Yonex about stringing at high tensions. It said not to put high tensions on the strings near the ends/sides. For your first few racquets, it might be better to string at lower tensions, to get used to the process. Measure the frames before, during and after to check for distortion. If you get distortion at low tensions, don't do high tensions. I didn't go above 22 until my 10th racquet. But then, I'd stopped playing with high tensions, so I didn't need to. I am currently stringing my Ti-10 and MP100 with 21lb main and 20 lb cross. I've tried 22x24, 24x24, 22x23, 20x18, 21x20. On my oval heads I'm using 20x18. Of all the combinations I prefer the crosses lower than the mains. I've measured the frames before during and after stringing, and the biggest difference between unstrung and strung has been 1mm wider, with the crosses 2lb less than the mains.
im having problems again, i've strung 2 racquets so far and they both came out warped.... i don't know where im going wrong... i've done it perfectly and they still come out a bit distorted.... any help?? :crying:
Sorry to hear that. What kind of stringing machine are you using? Manufacture /model? Drop weight/hand crank/electric? 2pt/4pt/6pt holding? please take pictures if you can. Try start to string from the top. Tide on 6 and start on 7. Try 20lb main X 22lb cross. Let us know.
I have this http://www.atssports.com/ats/reference_product.asp?dept_id=9010&parent_dept_id=9007&pf_id=MGXS# I tried stringing my mp99 with bg80 at 24x26lbs for my main i started from the middle and worked my way out for the cross i started from the top and worked my way down tied the knot and everything fine, took the racquet out and it looked warped to the right hand side by 1cm atleast.... i cut the string already so can't take pics i'll give it ago again tomorrow night and see if i have any luck....
You might have a cracked frame. Check your frame closely. If that is the case, how long you had this racket? it might still under warrenty. Also, try on a cheaper racket first if you have one.
Lessons learned: 1. Never use the high end racket for ur demo. Use cheap racket and cheap string for demo runs, in case something is wrong, no big lost. 2. Never start with high tension, unless u have confidence. I started with 18*20 with cheap racket and string, and did not reach 24*26 for almost another 6 months!
From the pic, it looks like 1 clamp is tennis clamp. If so, u need to get another badminton clamp. Tennis clamp might not be tight enough (lose tension) for badminton strings.
i have 2 yonex flying clamps, so i got all the right tools im confident already with stringing at high tensions so its ok.... i was just wondering, for drop weight, does the drop weight bar have to be exactly horizontal everytime u tension it, or can it be above or below horiztonal by a centimeter or 2?? (my racquets are fine, no cracks what so ever and i've tightened them securely)
Lets say you set the tension to be 20 pound. Getting the bar to be exactly horizontal is the only way to pull 20 lb. If the bar is above or below, you will pull less than 20 lb. It will be nigh on impossible to get it exactly horizontal, so you have to be able to decide how close is good enough. If you are 5 degrees out, higher or lower, you will be pulling 20 x cosine 5 cosine 5 = 0.9962 so you will be pulling 19.92 lb (an error of 0.4 %) if the bar is 50cm long, the end will be 50 x tan 5 cm higher or lower = 4.4 cm If you are 10 degrees out, higher or lower, you will be pulling 20 x cosine 10 cosine 10 = 0.9848 so you will be pulling 19.70 lb (an error of 1.5 %) if the bar is 50cm long, the end will be 50 x tan 10 cm higher or lower = 8.8 cm so, decide how accurate you want to be, e.g. accurate to 0.998 inverse cos 0.998 = 3.62 so the bar can deviate by 3.62 degrees from horizontal and you will be accurate to 0.2% measure the length of your bar from its axis to its end and calculate tan 3.62 (or your derived angle) x length of your bar = vertical deviation limit of the end of your bar to achieve your accuracy. P.S. put some sticky tape or some sort of mark on your racquet if only one side of it distorts. If the same side always distorts when you string it, it's more likely to be a problem with the racquet than the stringing.
i've done it!! i think i know where i was going wrong, i think i was pushing the drop weight bar horizontal at times forcing the string creating much more tension than intended.... my mp99 is at 24x26lbs wasted 3 packs of bg80's but on my 4th attempt i've finally done it!! its not warped at all.... im so happy... haha
Well done yes, if the bar ends up too high you need to lift it up and re-position the string in the gripper so that the bar goes lower.
Thanks Neil, LazyBuddy, Taneepak and silent heart!! special thanks goes to Neil for the start off guide, that was exactly what i needed to get me going....
