Stringing Techniques/Practices.

hi i just found this thread

hello everybody

will be putting up some pics soon
and some of stringing practices and methodology.... basicaly u will know how a jug8man strung racquet is produced from step A to Z (roughly enough)

keep an eye out for it

cheers from sunny side malaysia

8man

 

Pattern

ok here's the simple part

1 piece stringing

Mains
strung from side to side

starting knot
- triple loop with double loop into the triple loop to form a bulge (number of loops depend on diameter of string.... thicker string less loops)
- at BL6 (standard racquet) or BL8 for AT800 / NS7K / NS8K and the like

Crosses
- bottom to top
- Last Cross TL7
- Tie Off = TL6

The Mains to Crosses Switch Point
- BR12 to BR8 (standard)
- BR12 to BR9 (AT800)


Cheers.... till next time

8man

BR: bottom right
TL: Top left
BL: bottom left
u get the idea

 

sloppy runny strings???

the answer(s) to why some strung racquets are less sloppier than others (in a technique / practice perspective not aptitude)


1) Compounding Tension

- basically stringing mains from side to side will 'compound' the 'credibility' of the line's tension from start to the end of the mains. --> because the tension of each line will be 'COMPOUNDED' by the tension of the next line and supported by the backbone which is the line before.

- stringing mains from the centre....... where the most 'important' group of main lines have no solid footing ---> often leads to sloppy centre mains even if you increase the tension for the centre 4 mains = which wont do much good either

note: compounded might not be the most suitable term.. but it is best sounding


2) Side Mains Tension Differiantial?!?!?!?

a) 2 Piece stringing with tie offs (stringing from centre)
= 2 extra outlets for tension loss
= Higher posibility for tension differiantial between sides due to inconsistent tie off knot skill / ability

b) 1 Piece stringing with starting clamp followed by tie off knot ( stringing from side to side)
after stringing mains, retension 1st string and release starting clamp. clamp main and proceed to tie the starting tie off knot at designated location.
= mild risk of tension differiantial due to ineffiecient tie of knot due to lack of ability / skill.
--> Reduce tension Creep at knot string by using Interlocking system (refer interlocking system)

c) 1 piece stringing with starting knot ( the bulge) ( stringing from side to side)
= almost 0 risk and worry of tension differiential between the 2 last side Mains
= DA BOMB


3) Interlocking System
= the technique of crossing the cross lines (with tension) over the main lines which travels over the outer part of the frame at the sides of the throat.
= helpfull to reduce 'lose taps'
= knots can also serve as interlocking 'devices'


4) Optimal Tensioning position
= Every String on each string hole has its own 'optimal stringing position'
i will define this at the (= angle of the string pointing from the frame) location when tensioned and locked on, moving the table-top (lazy susan) will not cause any slack / or string to de-stretch back into the frame.
= observing this rule will make sure that all lines strung will resemble as closely as possible the tension which u have set.... and not a slacked version of it.


5) Consistant Tensioning length
in order to produce a balanced strung racquet...... that there must be a consistency in the point of where all lines are tensioned.
e.g. if u tension a line from 3 inches away from the frame.... then you'd better make sure that every other lines are tensioned from about 3 inches away from the frame as well.


6) Straight Crosses
when tensioning your crosses.... make them as straight and as pararel with each other as possible. NO RAINBOW CROSSES!
having to straighten the crosses after completion is not an option... it is a sign of FAILURE TO ENSURE PROPER TENSIONING OF THE CROSSES.
this will ensure minumum slack and reduce 'fake tension risk'

i dont care if u have to use an awl, metal bar, toothpick, or your own two front teeth.... get it done, and get it done right.


7) Clamping and clamps
= properly adjusted to the strings gauge blah blah
= best to clamp as near to the frame as possible with out scratching blah blah
= make sure no tension is lost during tensioning and reclamping (refer optimal tensioning position) blah blah


THE END
= this basicaly covers everything and the basics (unless i have forgoten something) if there are any omitions i will add in the future
= once again i stress that in only covers technique and not aptitude aspects of stringing.

GOODLUCK


cheers from sunny side Malaysia

8man

p.s. sorry for any confusing parts........ i've stretched my limits of articulating the message as simple, clear, and yet as specific as possible.

p.s.#2 this may not be rocket science... but just like gardening, there's a lot more too it eh.

 

I've been talking with and discussing stringing methods/techniques/dos and don'ts with quite a few local stringers, two even Yonex Certified and have learned a great deal. I'll post something detailed when I have more time.

One thing I will say right now; I have noticed, with respect to getting the racket back as close to the original shape as possible is, if you string the mains at ~22lbs. or less, do the cross strings 2lbs. higher. If 25lbs. or higher, go with a 3lbs. increase on the cross strings. So now on my personal rackets, I do 25lbs. mains and 28lbs. crosses. I noticed after the strings settle, it's just about back to original shape whereas going with 2lbs. increase, it's still slightly off. 23-24lbs. is gray area, if you can, go 2.5lbs. on the cross.

 

I'm not certain, I know they have some kind of requirement(s). I'll ask the Yonex Stringer in a couple days when I see him. He was stringing at the WCs and said it was crazy and fun, had to string so many rackets.

 

Yes Sir, I can do that. I have strung BG-85 @ 31/34lbs. for a crazy gentlemen. BUT, doing the 34lbs. I had to go very slow and I thought the string was going to break.

Once strung, I hit with the racket and it felt so good but I did a hard clear and the strung busted so I'd say around 32lbs. is the realistic limit for a non-hard hitter. 29-30lbs. for a hard hitter and it won't last over 2 hours.

That's my experience and best guess.

 

one client i did was 25-27lb using bg85 and it lasted a week. It was busted at the top, weak part of armortec. The new pattern can sure use another cross at the top.

 

Since I went to the AT800-OF and used BG-85 at 27/29lbs. I broke 8 strings in 14 days. Since then, I don't use BG-85 anymore. I now use BG-80 and at 27/29lbs. it's been very good and the durability good as well. I'm so happy.

 

it was my mistake tho. I had recommended bg80 and i 'accidently' open a bag of bg85 and didnt notice it until the racket was almost done. The packets look similar at around 2am

 

The Armortec here is probably an AT800 DE or OF, not AT700. Yes, a mishit at the top with very high tension can kaput the string. But why would he want to hit it at the wrong place? The AT800s and the new Nano series are not for players whose timing and hitting technique are not quite spot on. I have an AT800DE for more than 18 months now, strung at 27.5/30.5lbs, and not once did my string break at the top.

 

LOL! Speaking about "2am", the most embarassing thing I've done...oh I better not say, maybe in a new post.

 

there is a special thread just for that

http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24559&highlight=worst

 

jug8man, it is obvious that you are a great advocate, and a greater defender, of one-piece stringing. At least you are true to your roots, where 1-pc stringing was first used and continues to be used. But the world is not all 1-pc stringing. There are other patterns and methods. It would be best if you just say what you want to say about your preferences. Leave the alternative patterns to others.

 

i dont think jug8man said 1 piece stringing is the best or the only way to go. He is saying that method works best for his application and type of clients.

 

Has anyone tried this stringing convention, I came up with it on my own:

-1 piece string job
-Mains done at 25lbs.
-First two cross at 25lbs., when you get to the third cross, increase to 28lbs.
-Finish remaining crosses at 28lbs.

Any comments/concerns, etc...?

Thanks.

 

Interesting, it is something new. Cannot comment with any conviction because I have not tried it. How does it play?

 

Plays excellent, been doing this for the last two weeks, with absolutely no problems. In fact, a few friends love it and the racket shape is just about back to the original shape. I love it, saves me from doing the 2-piece.