I usually like to let strings “settle in”. But at times I have played with rackets fresh off the machine. Maybe it’s my imagination but it seems that the “matured” stringjobs play better. (And, of course, SquashEric and Dinkalot string jobs play superlatively — even after shipping)
I was stringing one of my new rackets and because of the closeness of the last main and frame, and last upper cross and frame, I had to double pull the last 2 strings. In other words, I double pulled the last 2 mains, first 2 crosses and last 2 crosses. Even I feel (pinching the strings) the looseness of those 2 (end) strings, the racket plays really well with great feel and repulsion. I was wondering the looseness of the end strings gives the string-bed a more trampoline effect and thereby increases the sweet spot. What do you guys think?
I don't think slack transfers as quickly as many other people think. The assumption tends to be that any slack will rapidly spread throughout the rest of the strings, but I think it takes a much longer time than assumed. With the last 3 mains, I find the first one will almost always have some slack due to the knot. The 2nd one will take some of that slack. The third one will be almost completely unaffected.
I agree the slack does not 'infect' the rest of the string-bed even after few sessions. I will experiment with my other rackets which I can choose to double pull or not double pull the 2 last strings. On the cross = main, my thought was mains will end up with slightly higher tension than crosses (weaving crosses stretches the mains) but because mains are longer than crosses, the extra tension on the mains may give a slight edge over cross > main.
Earlier in my method of stringing the first top crosses, before clamping after a double pull, I used to pull the string manualy with the hook near the frame in the blue zone perpendicularly from top to down, string being still in tension, to remove the slack of the first cross. I have stopped doing that because of the stress I was probably causing on the frame when I was pulling like this.
I used the 1 piece Haribito 72 holes pattern. I agree that the outside of racket looks really neat and clean and less long passes between holes. I used the one from the attached image. Although images is not too clear, but my understanding is on the short side the mains goes from B12 to B13 and comes down and on the long side it goes from B12 to B14 and moves up. What difference would it make (if any and someone knows) if the short side goes from B12 to B10 and follows down and long side goes from B12 to B11 and goes up?
Thanks Kwun for suggestions. Main point is not to take suggestions blindly, but use and adjust them based on your situation/scenario. The way you mentioned that patterns may not make much big difference compared to the overall consistency of the string job. is there suggestion/advice/pros-cons on where to tie the knots? e.g. if If first cross is B9, then any differences in tying it off on B8,B7,B6 in string pattern or for 2 string pattern starting cross tie off at B6 (as per Yonex) vs B7 just to reduce the tie-off length?
I like this suggestion, it should be a little closer to full bottom-up in terms of stress on the racket, with little to no difference in terms of playability. I'm currently pre-weaving a Haribito, I think I'll give it a try. I think it's good practice to try and reduce the tie-off length as it helps to prevent tension loss. I'm actually a big fan of tying the mains on B10 with 3 strings in the hole, Kakinami-style. But if you're working on a racket under warranty, then I think you have to use the pattern recommended by the manufacturer.
Fully agree with warranty constraints. These questions are of course out of warranty scenarios or for the daring ones Regarding Haribito, let me know how did it go. Regarding tie off on B10, in case of Haribito 1 string why should one prefer B10 tie off compared to B8? It would be the same length from B9 and avoid struggling with 3 strings in a hole, isn't it?
I wasn't very clear about tying with 3 strings in one hole. It's used for the mains when you string 2-piece. You can tie in B10, or in B9 if you're using the Yonex pattern. Haribito with B10 and B11 went smoothly, nothing got in the way while stringing, and it doesn't feel like there's a difference in play (to a low level player like me at least)
For yonex 2 string pattern, how do we tie-off mains on B10? Isn't that the last hole from which string comes out? Or you meant something else? I am using below pattern as a reference for Yonex.
ah, got it now. Bad reading But, in general it is preferred to tie-off in the nearest hole possible, unless we are following the standard pattern for warranties. I liked the haribito with only 2 at the bottom, It felt easy somehow to me.
Tying in B9 with the Yonex pattern is probably not worth the hassle. Getting a third string in a shared hole is more of a technique for when you finish the mains in B12, like if you're stringing with flying clamps and don't do the Yonex, or with other patterns like the Paizhuan. I agree that this Haribito variant feels nice and easy, it's also closer to a full bottom-up (which could be good for the frame, but opinions differ on that subject)
I've always thought that there ought to be definitive answers for these questions, but reliable data is hard to come by
