I try to get a picture in my mind of how to pre-stringing a racquet. I understand that pre-stringing means completely stringing the racquet before tensioning. You can pre-string away from the machine. Getting string through holes that already have string threaded through them is easier if the string isn't tensioned. But after I finished the pre-string to my racquet, where do I start to tensioning the string? I was thinking to left some distance of string between LT1 and LT2, also some for between RT1 and RT2, so that I can tensioning from the first two center mains. Is it correct? I probably can't completely pre-stringing all the holes because I left some distance of the strings (for above reason), but it's okay, because it will eventually let me take care the least few holes after I tensioned the rest. I'm sorry that if I repeated the question in this thread, but I can't find the similar question about it, it seems everyone is very familiar with the pre-strining process, so they dont' bother to ask for detail. I will be appreciate if everyone can make this clear to me or even with drawing diagram or picture taken will be great. Thanks in advance.
Some answers! Yes, you can pre-string away from the machine. In fact, that's what I do exclusively. I pre-string rackets when I'm waiting for a court. I save so much time. I start by tensioning in the middle main strings. But to do this, we need extra string to start. I found a near perfect way to measure this. When I pre-string the first two mains, on one main, instead of looping through the grommet, I stretch the string and loop around the handle of the racket. So the string goes along the full side of the handle to the end of the handle cap and back up, then finally through the grommet. Once I start to string, I pull the loop string in half so I have enough string to pull the left and right sides of the main. Does that make sense? If not, I will get some pictures. It's actually quite easy. You can pre-string the whole racket and will have string left because of the above technique. I'm thinking about doing a complete FAQ on stringing a later on and would incorporate all the expert strings' advice on BC. I think it would be pretty good.
I would be appreciated if you can take some pictures. Does this technique apply to a 10m string or just 200 reel string? (I'm confused). Thanks alot.
Works with both, easier with a pack. I'll take some pictures when I bust a string...won't be for at least another week. My shoulder still hurts. Need to rest for at least another 5 days. :crying:
Ooops, update, actually it's the same, with a reel, just measure out the appropriate length of string you need. With the pack you just go...and this assumes doing a 2-knot; if 4-knot, I have to think about it and get back to you.
Sure there is, after you pre-string, you just have to make two cuts on the string as well as leave a bit more string. It's hard to explain. I will write something up once I get some time.
With 2-pc pre-stringing using a 10m packet of string, a starting clamp will come in useful as a jumper, in case your strings cannot reach the tensioner/gripper.
For 2-pc pre-stringing method, I know it's necessary to use the starting clamp to do the mains, but is it really necessary for the cross? I thought I can tied a knots in the bottom cross, then start pre-stringing.... Is it effective?
For me personally, pre-stringing the racket seems to save a lot time & effort while stringing the racket. I could actually be watching TV & pre-stringing the racket & then the (tensioning)stringing itself would not take more than 20-25 minutes;;;;
Yes, you can do that and that's what I do but some here start stringing the crosses from the top. I've never tried that before.
I see. Isn't some posts not recommand ot string the cross from the top? I forgot the reason why though...
I thought it was the other way around, promoting stringing from the top. I hope I'm wrong though, I prefer stringing from the bottom.
Also the stringing guide say to string the cross from bottom to top. I know the stringing guide isn't perfect. But I don't see the real benefit to string cross from top. Any thought?
The bottom of the frame (close to the shaft) is more 'strong'/sturdy than the top, so it is my argument that if you start tensioning from the top instead of the bottom the chances of any deformation of the shape can or could be minimized.....
That's what I thought but some have their logic why it's not the case. Oh well. P.S. I have those pre-string pictures ready, ULing now...
