I've experienced with stringing with fixed clamp stringing machines before, but recently, I've purchased an used stringing machine with flying clamps. I do not know which strings to clamp down first in order to get started?!?!? Are there any guides around for stringing with flying clamps? THX!
The standard method is Thread Left Main 1(LM1) and Right Main 1(RM1) Clamp LM1 and RM1 together near the head. Leave space for the other clamp between this clamp and the head. Thread RM2 Pull tension on RM1 and RM2 together Clamp RM1 and RM2 at the head Pull tension on LM1 Clamp LM1 and RM1 at the throat moving the first clamp you used Then continue as normal Other methods are discussed in this thread Q for racket stringers
im sort of stuck here aswell... if u only have 2 flying clamps, and u take off the 1 which holds the LM1 and RM1 wouldn't it let go of the tension? as nothing is there to hold the tension down.... im confused, had my stringing machine for 2months now and i still can't string yet.... :crying:
For Neil's method, u r using 2 flying clamps. For his step "Clamp LM1 and RM1 together near the head", u use Clamp 1 (C1) For his step "Clamp RM1 and RM2 at the head", u use C2 - this way, the right part is always secured with C2, and now, u r free to move C1 (on the left). For his step "Clamp LM1 and RM1 at the throat moving the first clamp you used", u use C1 Basically, according to his method, u alternatively thread and pull tension between left and right mains, and alternatively moving 2 clamps further apart from each other. Just keep in mind, when u move a clamp (remove it from the previous piece, and trying to clamp it onto the newly tensioned piece), the string u r tensioning should still be pulled by the machine, while the other end of the string is properly secured by the other clamp.
If you're still stuck, let us know and we'll go through it in more detail. When I started, I found the hardest part was starting the mains. The method I described is what was in the manual that came with the machine. I have since changed to using a starting clamp, so that I don't have to pull 2 strings at once.
Another way to get start, is to ask around, see if any other local stringer using only 2 flying clamps for their work. If possible, watch them once or twice, and ask questions, u should pick it up in no time. After that, it's all practice.
pic grabbed from http://209.166.188.140/gammasports/assets/manuals/602_manual.pdf This pic is slightly different to my original post. What has happened is Thread Left Main 1(LM1) and Right Main 1(RM1) and half of (RM2) that's the top middle and bottom of the strings shown in the pic Clamp RM1 and RM2 together using Clamp1, leaving space for the other clamp between this clamp and the head. Pull tension on RM1 and LM1 together i.e pull on the piece of string coming out of LM1 at the head end where the arrow to the tensioner is While the tensioner is still pulling Clamp LM1 and RM1 at the head using Clamp2 That is the position the picture shows To continue you would stop pulling tension finish threading that bottom string through RM2 at the throat rotate the turntable through 180 degrees so throat is at the tensioner Pull tension on RM2 Move Clamp1 down to the throat, still clamping RM1 and RM2 stop pulling tension thread LM2 from head down to throat Pull tension on LM2 Move Clamp2 down to the throat, now clamping LM1 and LM2 (if the clamps get in the way of each other, you can stagger them or have 1 hanging down and 1 pointing up) stop pulling tension rotate the turntable through 180 degrees so head is at the tensioner thread RM3 from throat down to head ... etc
If you have a stringing machine that uses only flying clamps, I highly recommend you get 2 more flying clamps in addition to the two that come with the machine. You really need 4 flying clamps for the mains, two on each side, to do the job as well as what a single flying clamp can do for the crosses. Even the best flying clamp does a dismal job on the mains, simply because clamping on two strings is basically anchoring on strings. A fixed clamp clamps on the string but is solidly anchored on a stainless steel rail. The problem with the crosses is not serious because a single flying clamp has many strings to clamp and anchor on, two crosses and as many mains as your clamp allows. Maybe, just maybe, the above could be responsible for some strung racquets becoming narrower after stringing, especially oval-shaped racquets?
I agree, most time I do use 3 flying clamps to do the job, as the 3rd one is the "utility player" to assist the other clamp, when I am tensioning mains on this particular side. For the idle side, I think 1 clamp to lock it down is good. Because when u switch to that side, u will use the machine to pull tension again. Especially for drop weight machine, even though there might be tension lost due to clamping, it will get everything back, once the gripping is pulling again.
Hi guys, thanks for the help!! i finally strung a racquet last night but there was a problem with it so i had to cut the string.... the racquet i strung came out bent, it was warped and the head shape of it was out of shape.... its an old wilson titanium racquet at which i strung at 22lbsx22lbs... im yet to string my mp99 because i want to gain more experience.... can anybody tell me why my racquet came out bent?? and if i wanted to string my mp99, is there a certain method?? i'll do a search later on to gather as much information as i can before i will even attempt my mp99
read other post, there is a 10% or 2lb rule for stringing. for example, 22mX24C or 20mX22C. when you go higher on main, i think 10% higher on cross works better.
1. If u racket comes out to be round, then, add 10% tension on the cross. 2. Don't not start with MP99 or the pricy rackets, unless u have several successful demo run on cheap rackets under ur belt. 3. Most racket u can follow the yonex string patterns.
oh i also ran out of string when i tried to string the main i measured 5metres and i was about 30cm short to tension the last 2 strings lol.... so i pulled it by hand... for the main strings its about 5.3meters and cross is about 4.7meters right?? yeah i just been reading around and u lot mentioned about the 2lbs more on the cross strings... i just realised... hmm... when i start stringing the cross strings, its ok to start from the middle right??cause i use 2 yonex flying clamps.... i read that u lot said i should either put an extra half lb on the first few strings or wait a minute for the string to stretch....
Depend on what kind of stringer you use. If you have drop weight machine or constant pull machine, you do not need to wait. For yy rackets, it should be 17'm and 16'c or 5.5 meters main and 4.5 meters cross. Kwun wrote a good artical in his equipnemt section in the main page. A very good read. It also recommend string from middle for fast stringing. I usually start from the top so I can count how many string I have done so far.
Here's the problem, too. When u pull by hand, there's no way u can get to 22lb, which means significant tension lost in main (the last 1-2 pieice at each end, especially). Such progress will also result into shape change, due to lack of accuracy. Don't cut the string evenly, make it 17ft for main and 16 ft for cross next time. Also, make sure really "lock" the racket on the machine perfectly beforfe doing anything. A bad lock position (too loose or too tight) will result into bad accuracy or even danmage the racket.
For Iso heads I use 18' main 15' cross for 22mainsx22crosses Prince Y shape 17' main 15' cross for 18mainx22cross Vienly, have you got a 2-point or 6-point support machine?
i got a 2-point machine with 2 yonex flying clamps, for cross stringing it means i have to start from the middle right?