After sharing my string bed frequency data in the thread started by @visorhttp://www.badmintoncentral.com/foru...string-tension I thought I could share with the community how I string badminton rackets for myself and friends. In this video I'm stringing my own racket, the brand new Victor Jetspeed S 10 that has been a hot topic in the BC forums. Comments and questions are welcome. (I'm sure you'll notice some oddities: 1. starting the mains with both fly clamps and fixed clamps 2. using loose string to thread the cross between 2 main grommets-> I don't like using awls 3. using tooth floss to help thread cross string through shared holes -> I don't like using awls) Stringing Details: Stringer: DarthHowie Machine Setup: Gamma 6004 + Wise 2086 + Chudek Side Supports + ToyoZouki Fixed Clamps (GM-02106) Wise 2086 Settings: Constant Pull & Prestretch 10% Racket: Victor Jetspeed S 10 (Dry Weight: 83.3g, Balance Point: 293.7mm) String: Ashaway Zymax 65 Tension (main x cross): 25 x 27.5 lbs Method: 2 piece 4 knot, Top Down proportional for crosses (top cross strung at 25 lbs, next 4 crosses strung at 26 lbs, all crosses after strung at 27.5 lbs until the last 4 were strung at 27 lbs). String Bed Frequency (Measured by CarlTune App): 1266 Hz [video=youtube;Whn8OiQ4i20]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Whn8OiQ4i20[/video]
[MENTION=2950]DarthHowie[/MENTION] 1. starting the mains with both fly clamps and fixed clamps Can you explain, why you choose this way? I have seen many stringers who starts the mains with one of their fixed clamps. I noticed, that if I used cheap fixed clamps in the past, and stringing at >30lbs, the string get's really crimped or slipped and broke often at this position. I don't know the toyo zouki clamps, but if I trust all owners here, their shouln't be such an issue like with a non dusted 30USD fixed clamp. I would be glad if you explain the reason and how you came to this method.
I already like this one - the single-pass stuff at the top has enough offset so you don't need loops. However, I might swap those "mushroom" grommets out for some normal (flat) ones... I don't like those string angles. I use a flying clamp "on the back" of my fixed clamp when starting mains these days, myself.
First time stringing it, it was a "just in case" precaution. It's probably because of how these grommets are different from the flat ones creating enough space to just thread the string through. My review of this racket will come later in the week. All I can say is that it is "different" in a good way for me. Members and guests at our club either liked the racket or didn't. No middle ground.
Bad experience with my gamma clamps and BG-85. caused visible wear on the jacketing of the string when tensioning first main against fixed clamp. I even cleaned the clamps just to be sure. I guess after that experience I saw another stringer use this approach and i felt comfortable with it. Due to thickness of north south posts i can't clamp as close to the frame. I figured this would get more slack out compared to tensioning the string when it wraps around the grommet on one end. To each their own.
Great to see such a high top cross, IMO, as well, especially after that abominable Meteor pattern. Had to break out my thin loadspreader, but it was worth it.
Are you kidding me? The 8ST I had kept breaking on top rofl. It's more cursed than any meteor I've ever owned for any period of time and that's saying something because I've owned meteors way longer and mishit way more times on the 12 area in comparison.
I'm fine with the meteor pattern. I own 6 jjs after all. If it was a problem T6 is large enuf to string an extra top cross
I'm hoping that this 2+4 pattern on the JS-10 is the start of a trend, tbh (and it's on the forthcoming HX800 and K9900, so the signs are good).
Hey what pattern do you use? Is it the NR-ZSP stringing pattern except for the crosses instead of going from bottom up you go from top to bottom? http://www.yonex.com/products/badminton-stringing-instructions/ I tried using this http://www.victor-international.com/documents/pattern_76.pdf but seems like some crosses string at the top of the racquet are too close.
Yes to both. Did you read the "Method" section in my video? It answers most of your questions. However i didn't explicitly state that i used the Yonex 2 piece pattern (skip in the mains b9 to b12) instead of the Victor Pattern. I'll fix up the details on my next video when i have more time.
Yep yep I read your entire post and also saw the video but it was hard to see which holes you skipped since the jetspeed there are so many holes at the top of the racket. Thanks thanks, I just bought the klippermate last week so it's first time stringing so I am still trying to understand what tension or stringing pattern I should use and what knots also. I will definitely try the Yonex 2PTD (NR-ZSP) pattern next time with the following spec. Tension 24x26 Cross: top 5 and bottom crosses = 24 rest of the cross = 26 Starting Knot: Mark / John's knot End Knot: Toshi I will try to take a video next Tuesday and do you mind critiquing?
[MENTION=121843]badacc[/MENTION] - Welcome to the stringer's forum My technique and "flow" isn't as good as some of the other forum members, but I don't mind having a look. I do have some words of caution though since you are new to stringing. Maybe you should not be doing 24 x 26 lbs tensions on your primary rackets since this is your first time doing this. I'd start with a 20 lbs job...just so that the risk of breakage is less. I practiced maybe 10 string jobs before i started stringing my primary rackets so that i had a general idea of what to do and there would not be any surprises. When i first learned to string my string jobs were about 2 hours. 1) Trace racket head shape on piece of paper. 2) String racket 3) check racket head shape against tracing on paper. 4) Cut string from racket 5) let racket frame rest for 30 minutes Repeat steps 2-5 - making any adjustments to get the racket shape consistent